Alessandro Dell’Acqua is in an introspective phase, since lately his creative gaze has been directed inward at his own codes and his brand’s history rather than at outside influences and inspirations.
In his latest menswear collection, this inclination translated into a return to a certain “bourgeois attitude, similar to when I first started the men’s line,” he said, with the consequent elimination of all those sportswear references and logo-heavy streetwear that dominated the industry’s runways for years and are slowly shifting out of the picture in favor of a new formality.
Yet in Dell’Acqua’s definition, the term “bourgeois” still includes undercurrents of rebellion, sensuality and plenty of nonchalance, as well as nods to his favorite decade, the ‘90s. Tailoring diverted from sharp precision via contrasting stitching positioned haphazardly on suits; shirts in oxford cloth or striped patterns layered over one another or white tank tops further emphasized imperfection through wrinkled effects, while coats in cool wool were pinned with chiffon flowers or run with feathery details for a dandier vibe.
In keeping with the women’s pre-fall collection unveiled last month, Dell’Acqua also covered T-shirts, shirts and sweaters in sequins for a seductive liquid effect and enhanced delicacy via silk shirts with lavalier collars or lace inserts. As a textural counterpoint, a marine theme was pushed with vigor with navy peacoats and chunky knits as well as different interpretations of sailor pants cut from sturdy cotton.
Still, the most striking element was the introduction of twinsets for men, which the designer rendered in a leopard pattern or a gray wool version bejeweled with scorpion-shaped metallic brooches. These looks best expressed the uncomplicated and approachable nature of the collection and the new direction Dell’Acqua had in mind.