Tod’s fall collection was infused with Walter Chiapponi’s memories of his father’s clothes, “but without nostalgia,” said the brand’s creative director, unveiling the lineup at Milan’s Villa Necchi. Rather, he was thinking of “passing on what is precious” to the next generation.
He also referenced the “Hollywood glamour of the ‘30s” as an inspiration, seen best in a sleek trenchcoat with a storm shield and epaulettes.
Chiapponi has long believed in “staying true to a luxury chic style” for Tod’s and he did not waver from this stance for fall.
The Tod’s Pash Jacket was central to the collection, made using the finest hides and standout treatments achieved all by hand. The jacket is characterized by brushstrokes and polishes that add a 3D impression. The quality of the garment is also reflected in its special coating and artisanal waxing techniques, which all telegraph Tod’s craftsmanship and leather expertise.
Chiapponi elaborated the shirt jacket in soft and shiny napa; city jackets were presented in handwoven suede, and outdoorsy jackets were seen in a suede crust doubled in cotton.
The color palette revolved around warm and earthy hues, from brown and caramel to beige, contrasting with gray and white inserts.
Tod’s signature W.G. (or Winter Gommino) this season is more urban, in brushed leather or with a padded effect, that sees suede contrasting with the stitched fabric and the color of the soles. There were soft and light lace-ups and ankle boots in brown and black leather, with soles stitched by hand.
Chiapponi also shined a light on an accessory that is often an afterthought. He presented the Tod’s Greca Belt, which he believes can express the wearer’s personality, created in elastic, in a variety of colors and striped fabrics, without a buckle but rather with a leather closure.