Ten in the morning may have been too early for a drink, but not for Bianca Saunders, whose set was inspired by the comedy sketches of Jamaica’s famous funny man Oliver Samuels.
It included a little bar set with crystal decanters and tall stools. To one side there was an easy chair, tables set with flowers and a doorway hung with lace curtains.
Models mingled in the little tableau before walking onto the catwalk in the raw, industrial show space that hummed with recordings of Samuels’ broad comedy and reggae beats.
The collection had a laid-back feel and a gentle color palette. Saunders said she wanted it to feel “makeshift, pulled-together” and spontaneous, much like Samuels’ skits.
Tailored suits and coats in shades of sand and cream came with rounded shoulders and a single fold at the front, while denim had raw, stringy edges.
Other breezy silhouettes were fit for a seaside holiday, such as a boxy shirt that was a glimmering shade of oyster shell, a satiny robe coat and matching trousers, and pajama suits with psychedelic wave patterns. Loose-fitting knit tops and trousers, the color of clotted cream, were made for breezy nights.
Although some might find those folds, and other jacket details, too fussy and the psychedelic patterns dizzying, this collection was one of Saunders’ sharpest yet, lighthearted and full of old-fashioned fun.