We’re not in Emily’s Paris anymore.
For his third collection under the latest Georges Wendell incarnation, designer Pierre Kaczmarek wanted to take us to the seedier side of the city. He set his presentation at Le Zèbre cabaret in the gritty Belleville, all red velvet curtains, cheap drinks and low lighting. He set the scene with dancers taking to the stage, and had the models mix with guests as an elaborate piece of performance art.
Kaczmarek likes to tell a story and this season his characters got a little darker. He envisioned people a bit down on their luck. His key men’s look is a shiny black suit with a hint of lounge lizard and a dash of regret. A set of logoed, tie-front pajamas were left loose, leaving the model in a state of partial undress, as if he’s slipped on his loafers to go on the run. The look was topped with a blazer that showcased Kaczmarek’s strong tailoring chops.
He updated last season’s side-tie skirt in fluffy faux fur, paired with a rhinestone baby T — very Paris Hilton circa 2002. Pleated minis were slightly misshapen, intentional or not, adding another bit of “misfit” to the air. A longer skirt with pleated peplum was stronger, and truncated ties were a cheeky touch.
Kaczmarek restarted the label after a hiatus, and acknowledges he’s just getting Georges’ groove back. He’s returned to 10 retailers so far, and customers have found their favorites in harlequin-seamed shirts and his chunky mary janes, he said. It gives him room to play with other ideas.
The former ANDAM winner has a strong foundation and even stronger sense of what he wants the revamped brand to be, but should take care that his characters’ wardrobe doesn’t slide into costume.