This season, Juun.J tore up his own rule book — and his denim, too. The South Korean designer emerged from the cocoon of last year’s quilted blanket coats with a slimmed-down and shredded silhouette. It was a directional shift for Juun, who has long played with shape but kept his materials sacred. Set amongst the white pillars of the Arab World Institute’s basement, he built a temple to grunge.
Inspired by the era, Juun sent out destroyed looks in jeans, hoodies with holes, and ripped and resewn dresses. The designer said he wanted to show beauty in something old and damaged.
He imagined an atypical aesthetic and twisted take on value, on-trend as society rethinks the definition of beauty, and added a layer of Y2K discord. Miniskirts gave way to hip-baring bustiers, while midriff-exposing turtlenecks were roughly chopped. There was an emphasis on layers, with the hoodies-and-bomber combination the basis of several shapes.
Looks were accessorized with handbags flecked with large and dangerous-looking spikes, for the woman warrior to carry her copious amounts of eyeliner or perhaps use as a weapon.
Leather moto suits and biker jackets were distressed with paint, and a high-collared coat of flight jacket on top and tails in the back was an interesting twist. Faux-fur pieces were the one soft touch in this tough collection, and a bright blue puffer made of the material was a standout.
These were shapes and themes that Juun has mastered before, and while in line with the early 2000s’ oversized silhouette, felt a little heavy.