Kidill’s zombies have been revived, and this season they’re on wheels.
Following his last collection, where bloodied British school girls stumbled around un-dead style, Japanese designer Hiroaki Sueyasu was feeling a renewed energy and wanted to get back to the more powerful, punk spirit of his early collections. So he did so with speed, scouting pros from the DC Shoes skate team and local Parisian youths alike to perform spins and flips during his raucous presentation. Other models sat in brown velour lounge chairs best suited for a basement, adding an undercurrent of early Aughts “indie sleaze” to the show.
Sueyasu has long mined the skater codes, and here he mixed and matched plaids, shredded coats, oversized striped sweaters with baggy cargo pants and upturned fisherman’s hats.
Sueyasu’s softer touches are often hidden underneath the grunge aesthetic, and this season he worked with Japanese painter Miya Shibasaki, best known for her swirly florals, to create a print inspired by the works of Wong Kar Wai. The legendary director often infuses his films with saturated colors; here a cameo of a woman’s face is set against sage green and pink on a pussy bow dress and a denim sets, adding just a touch of edge.
This season he also experimented with a new technique of silk screening by hand, which landed as a logo on bright yellow puffer coats and pants. Sueyasu says he wants to continue to “elevate more and more” while sticking to his DIY ethos. Judging by the crowds of cool kids queueing in the courtyard he knows his client.