Mexican designer Antonio Zaragoza described his fall collection — his first runway presentation in Paris — as “like how my mind works, it’s a collage of different things, a celebration of my creativity and all my fears and dreams and nightmares.”
His dreams were vivid indeed, resulting in an explosion of printed Lycra that wove a common thread through his creative chaos, in which the rebelliousness of youth is key.
His fabric of choice was splashed with heraldry like images evoking the designer’s latest collaboration, with the Club Deportivo Guadalajara, or “Chivas” soccer team, forming flag-like capes or on tights that trod the runway.
“I am a big football fan in a philosophical way, I like what it represents for Mexico, for people and how it brings people together,” Zaragoza said.
Soccer jerseys, shorts and scarves were key to the lineup and goalie gloves saw their fingers adorned with seemingly unconnected words like “Truth,” “Oceans” and “Dream Lover.”
These were interspersed with elements of clown costume reprised from collections past — a harlequin-like diamond motif here, a mask there — and underpinned by the boxy streetwear staples like wide cargo pants, hoodies and perfectly cut distressed leather pieces through which Zaragoza cultivates his youthful following. Check motifs, as on a sleeveless puffer and matching pants splashed with neon green, star motifs and a yin-yang sign were also integral to his mixed messaging.