Teppei Fujita’s message this season was one of diversity, seeking to communicate the notion that fashion should be a place for creative freedom. Splicing Japanese, British and other references, he sculpted his diverse fabric choices at will and mixed his metaphors into an ebullient yet coherent whole.
This was in part thanks to the design features he has turned into signatures, like his satiny pocket flaps, found on chunky tweeds that referenced punk, or the undulating ribbon tabs that extended from the curved hems and flaps of his gray wool tailoring.
The colorful embroideries that adorned a shiny jersey tracksuit were a transposal of the designer’s own tattoo. He referenced the traditional kimono, meanwhile, with a high-necked shift dress that spliced red rayon with a Lurex twist on the ancient Shibori dying technique on its lower half. Scraps of black leather were turned into a fringed shirt and matching pants in his coed collection for fall.
Mixed into the lineup were a range of chunky knits resembling thrift-shop finds, with their vintage-style shiny buttons or deconstructed flaps.