This show was a lesson in elegant power dressing: Suits and coats were strong and sharp, but the ingredients soft and often velvetlike. Salt-and-pepper tweeds, bold chevrons and speckled wools abounded on outerwear, with colored velvet and watery moiré silks for evening jackets. Footwear, the brand’s specialty, was also hard to miss, especially the polished two-tone dress shoes with equestrian details. A noted colorist, creative director Massimiliano Giornetti indulged in the season’s palette of rusts and berry tones, often mixing together different shades on looks, through to the accessories. Peeking out from under a burgundy bomber jacket with an oversize knit collar, for instance, was a fine mauve and purple striped sweater and royal blue shirt. However, only a bold character could pull off a lilac double-breasted suit with peak lapels.


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