A return to grunge via a high-speed Teutonic highway, the Marc by Marc Jacobs women’s collection was edgy and a little angry but with a wayward schoolgirl charm. The dominant silhouette was a loose, hanging dress with a big bell skirt that hit below the knee, most often accessorized with a tailored jacket and combat boots. Within the very specific look there was endless variety — dresses in velvet, plaid, mesh and lamé, with outerwear that ranged from military to tailored bouclé.

The men’s wear was more grown-up than in seasons past. The very of-the-moment dressed-up military theme was well executed in Navy sailor-inspired suits as well as a variety of outerwear, such as general topcoats and nylon trenches. Other jackets were worked in Shetland fur, and the many flannel tuxedo pants offered a solemn feel. But the last look, a gold lamé trench with plaid pants and military boots, showed that this man is still a rebel at heart.