Dries Van Noten married art and fashion, commissioning Dutch artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters to realize a mural as a backdrop to clothes featuring the same architectural and typographic motifs. It made for a lively and nifty presentation — and also a demonstration that what works on a wall doesn’t always translate on a coat, shirt or blazer. The bold prints fed into the Belgian designer’s theme — “psychedelic elegance” — heightening the late Sixties-early Seventies mood of the collection. Thankfully, the prints were tamed by an army of military coats, stovepipe trousers and groovy Beatnik sweaters. Van Noten is building his men’s wear vocabulary, and his peacoats and greatcoats often came with distinctive double collars, the prominent one in a mohair resembling astrakhan. Skinny jeans in offbeat colors such as rust, and slipperlike shoes added a frisson of cool. Most men will cherry-pick items from this collection: pointy collar shirts, high-waist blazers and carrot-shaped pants.

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