Nicola Formichetti’s fondness for the outré side of fashion remains in rude health. Shimmering gold stirrup pants and sculpted, silk jacquard capes were among the looks he marched out. But this season, the house’s creative director balanced those designs with some sleek-yet-sober fare, adding a futuristic tinge to the “masculine uniforms” that he cited as an inspiration. Slim-cut suits in bottle green or black had rounded shoulders that recalled protective armor, while a smart black leather trenchcoat with peaked lapels looked fit for the Mugler superhero’s off-duty wardrobe. Those pieces edged the collection towards a more real-world vision for the Mugler aesthetic.

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