Doing an elegant about turn on the prevailing sportswear trend, the tailored suit took center stage in this ultrasophisticated collection that played out like a reinvention of traditionalism. The tonality of the looks — the creams, blacks and navys — forced the eye to concentrate on the superclean lines, proportions and tailoring mastery. Stripped of buttons, pockets and traditional vents at the back, the season’s jacket (short with a voluminous round shoulder) had a technical vibe that was at once razor sharp and soft. The skinny pant had the perfect break at the bottom; not too short, not too long. Fabrics were paramount, with computer-generated suitings and graphic patchwork knits lending a youthful effect. The overall vibe was dapper, with even the shoes — elongated wing-tip lace-ups with tassel details — treading a more mature buttoned-up direction that felt right on the money.

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