The steely palette and graphic lines of the collection recalled urban landscapes in the rain. Lean, sharply constructed jackets were elongated, while pants boasted higher waistbands — often accented by narrow cummerbunds. Suits were made from carded silk that had been treated like wool or cashmere. Weaves included pinstripes, tweeds and graphic checks in colors including steel gray, charcoal and cement. Suits were often layered with knits — either round or V-neck — in place of vests.

Outerwear played a starring role: Sweeping overcoats were made from spazzolino alpaca — a signature fabric of Zegna’s Agnona brand — or from alpaca that had been treated with a special coating to give it the rippled look of astrakhan. Short jackets and overcoats were fashioned from laser-treated mink.

Eveningwear also got the laser treatment as in velvet suits covered in tiny dots, giving them a fresh, youthful look. Next season, the entire collection will get new spin when Stefano Pilati — who was sitting in the front row — is fully in place as Zegna’s head of design and creative director of Agnona.

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