Is it a boy? Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini is expecting her first child, and opened her sprightly show with a series of looks in baby blue.
If so, she should nab some and store it away for his young adulthood. While nodding to the Sixties, Britain and equestrian style, this handsome collection was rooted in classic luxury and should stand the test of time. Like most designers in Milan, Giannini is in thrall of statement coats for fall. Dressy numbers were sculpted in sturdy wools; shapely double-breasted topcoats, generous cabans and pert peacoats enriched with a contrasting astrakhan collar here, a swaying back belt there. Skinny tapered or drainpipe trousers underpinned every look, including a series of taut hip-length jackets in shiny, vintage-look leather.
Tailoring was trim and youthful with a strong English accent, in color-specked checks, tweeds and oversize Glen plaids. Windowpane checks came in that perhaps telltale baby blue on a background of gray, the dominant shade in the collection. It also proved a versatile foil to quirkier shades like pea green, Dijon mustard and rich Bordeaux. The show climaxed with a short parade of creative formalwear, including loud, silvery brocade pants with a fancy birds-of-paradise motif that would surely look better on a woman. Looks like Giannini, who took a bow in a breezy trapeze top, will keep us guessing.