A rebel yell ripped through this streetwear-focused collection that still honored the designer’s master tailor skills. Umit Benan is a storyteller, basing his latest scenario in a seedy New York alley circa 1990, populated by hotdog sellers, hobos and tranny hookers. Their faces shielded by balaclavas, models prowled down the runway, occasionally stopping to tag a wall.

The characters ran from dodgy finance types dressed in modernized three-piece suits in pinstripe and tartan, to skaters and graffiti artists in well-crafted navy silk bombers with contrast sleeves, drawstring nylon parkas, printed sweatshirts and the like. Having built an aesthetic based on relaxed silhouettes with Eastern influences and proportions, the sporty garb still had Benan’s stamp, as in athletic drop-crotch pants subtly nodding to the harem pant. An oversize terry cloth top and printed short combo was especially cool. Skidding in at the end was the balaclava-d designer himself, who zipped off to spray paint “Nothing Is What It Seems” before taking his runway bow.

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