Lacoste artistic director Felipe Oliveira Baptista described his fall collection as “an imaginary Antarctic expedition.” While particularly apropos on the morning after Nemo, Baptista delivered the theme with a deliberate futuristic bent. Backstage, he noted that to inaugurate the brand’s 80th anniversary observance last season, “we played a lot of the heritage. I really wanted to look ahead this time.” That meant a women’s lineup in which he worked Lacoste’s signature cotton piqué fabric in new ways, sometimes bonded with milano jersey, leather and even foam. The overall feel was more structured than in the past, i.e., the exaggerated, rounded shoulders that read cocoon on many looks. Baptista also offered glacier and latitude-longitude prints on some terrific bonded outerwear. The results were less commercial than usual, and shot with a welcomed experimental fashion touch.

For men, Baptista repeated the topography and iceberg prints on coats and jackets, combining leather with wool on sweatshirts and pants for an almost armorlike vibe. The colorblocking on voluminous sweatshirts looked sharp, balancing precision and fit.