“I don’t like the word skinny: It’s really about an athletic person,” Kris Van Assche said of his decision to revisit the close-to-the-body tailoring that initially catapulted Dior Homme at the beginning of the new Millennium. A space exploration theme, springing from 1997’s “Gattaca,” was the vehicle Van Assche chose to “look to the future in an optimistic way.”
The opening looks, paraded to the techno thud of Anne Clark’s “Our Darkness,” made a strong impression. Although futuristic fashion reads cold — and the blinding white vinyl set, encircled by a raised gangway, was purposefully clinical — there was an emotional tug to the purposeful gait and allure of clean-cut young men in trim, zippered black suits.
Silver-buckled “safety belts” accentuated the nipped waists, but the shoulder line was authoritative as Van Assche, echoing the sci-fi film’s plot, tinkered with Dior Homme’s DNA and offered a roomier armhole.
Dry, technical black nylon applied to the raglan sleeves of trim trenchcoats or the sides of pin-striped suits accentuated the designer’s athletic agenda, and added a graphic punch to scrubbed-clean silhouettes.
At times the collection boldly ventured into “Star Trek” territory, as in red insignias embroidered onto high-collar jackets or embedded into color-blocked sweaters.