In one of the highlights of the week, Alber Elbaz and his men’s wingman Lucas Ossendrijver delivered an edgy, elegant collection geared to the individual dresser. Centered on razor-cut tailoring with Mod airs (amplified by the clinical Courrèges-esque boots), silhouettes were diverse, ranging from elongated with a sharp shoulder to rounded and oversized.
Fake double-breasted coats with hidden closures on the inside and purely decorative buttons on display had the visual drama without the cumbersome double layer of fabric. A black leather double-breasted jacket-cum-peacoat with molded trompe l’oeil buttons was terrific. Sportier propositions included slim quilted leather coats, and a modern leisure suit comprised of an oversize T-shirt and slim pants in an English plaid windowpane fabric.
The palette was mainly dark and masculine, broken by a couple of colorful interludes. An athletic energy hummed throughout, with techy sneakers finishing off gentlemanly looks, and graphic bands reminiscent of reflective safety strips adorning pants and tops for the city man on the run.