The Belgian designer’s immersion into the cosseted world of French couture as Dior’s new creative director has not blunted his edgy, rabble-rousing approach to men’s wear. His fall collection was strong, based on a few retro ideas — disco shirts and patterned sweater vests among them — that were given a futuristic spin.

Simons opened his show with a series of dramatic fit-and-flare coats, some with stiff tabs on the neckline jutting like a twist tie on a bread bag. They were intriguing in their mix of lab-coat strictness and Edwardian formality.

Thumbing his nose at the top-heavy silhouette that dominated Milan, the designer kept turtlenecks and pointy collared shirts snug, while cutting pants generously in plain wools or glossy satin.

Oddities in this Prada-esque collection included thick shoulder-to-shoulder tabs in contrasting colors splayed across the front of broad-shouldered suit jackets in colors like pumpkin and tan. Strange, too, how some of the manga-haired models toted striped satin backpacks on their hips like a stack of textbooks. No doubt they’ll be slung from many trendy young shoulders come back-to-school this fall.

The Belgian designer’s immersion into the cosseted world of French couture as Dior’s new creative director has not blunted his edgy, rabble-rousing approach to men’s wear. His fall collection was strong, based on a few retro ideas — disco shirts and patterned sweater vests among them — that were given a futuristic spin.

Simons opened his show with a series of dramatic fit-and-flare coats, some with stiff tabs on the neckline jutting like a twist tie on a bread bag. They were intriguing in their mix of lab-coat strictness and Edwardian formality.

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