“My grandfather was actually a Masai warrior when he was captured by an enemy tribe,” Agi Mdumulla told WWD, explaining that his family visits the African tribal lands every summer. Last summer, a family wedding saw 15 of his clan traveling through the country around Kilimanjaro in a minibus. That made this collection, shown to the throbbing beats of live African drums, a very personal one for the young designer who, together with partner Sam Cotton, married the contrasting cultural references of tribal Africa and Western oil conglomerates.

Traditional Masai checks informed the black-and-white ones that opened the show in an oversize coat. Sharp tailoring featured strips of reflective tape fused onto the cuffs of blazers and the hems of pants. Reflective ink was used in hand-drawn and screen-printed horizontal stripes, while their interpretation of oil company logos appeared as vinyl digital prints on padded pieces.

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