Antonio Marras’ fall collection kicked off with a charming performance: two generations of tailors sitting across from each other, furiously spinning the squeaking wheels of antique sewing machines. The show was a tribute to the designer’s father, who owned a fabric shop in Sardinia, and the collection was built on drop-crotch carrot pants and bulky tops, including generously knit turtlenecks and cocooning sweaters.

There was fabric mixing galore, most impressive on coat fronts that turned from felt to tweed to shearling. A run of neatly buttoned cardigans paired with slim ties heightened the retro mood. For the finale, the tailors rose in unison, put on their unfinished garments and walked proudly off the runway.