“Luxury is comfort,“ declared Massimo Piombo, summing up his handsome fall collection, presented at the Jamaica Bar, a former hangout of the Milanese literati. The nonchalant lineup included playfully oversized outerwear and matching scarves, some in check patterns. An overcoat was a replica of one once belonging to Oscar Wilde that Piombo scored at Sotheby’s in Paris. Fabrics included hand-woven wool blends, baby alpaca and mohair sourced from a handful of mostly European mills targeting women’s couture.

Also in the old-school vein, Piombo trumpeted dinner jackets — a disappearing category, much to his chagrin. His came in emerald green and sky blue alpaca, adorned with a silk tuxedo collar.