Antique street lanterns cast their dim light on a Paris square in winter, a bed of snow absorbing the sound of cars honking in the distance. Alexandre Mattiussi’s Brassaï-esque runway set conjured a charming mood, and for the first time professional models and not only “friends” paraded his collection, signaling the Andam prize winner’s readiness to move his brand to a bigger international stage.

Mattiussi stuck to his mellow, infinitely approachable take on Parisian street chic. Terrific knits with matching oversize scarves, coiled cozily around necks, and baggy suit pants were among the pillars of the collection. The palette was more sophisticated than in previous seasons, mainly shades of gray, navy and camel.

A hooded sweater here, a padded bomber there added an athletic, boyish vibe as models lingered on the set. Dressier options included smoothly tailored Chesterfield coats and trenches. “I didn’t want anything fancy,” Mattiussi explained backstage. “I wanted to keep it simple, in order not to distract the attention from the basics.”