Craig Green again summoned a contemplative mood with his fall collection, billed as the designer’s “deepest exploration of uniform to date.” Many of Green’s silhouettes had military connotations, as in army fatigue pants; padded, protective vests and trench coat style jackets.

Green deftly played with those traditionally masculine garments, working the designs in fluid, billowing fabrics, that leant them a serene, rather than combative air. A bottle-green pair of silk cargo pants were laced at the leg with utility-style ties, which Green left undone, and paired with a matching trench jacket that hung off the model’s shoulders to reveal a heavy, neoprene tank underneath.

The designer further explored what he described as “protection and vulnerability” via heavy knit sweaters woven with a single hole at the chest. A tunic and matching samurai pants, with ties around the chest that evoked protective armor, came in soft, quilted navy cotton.