Patrick Grant’s E. Tautz show telegraphed a sober, resolutely masculine air, with the designer citing “the north of England, cobblestones and decay” among his watchwords for the season. He called the collection “Terry Street” after Scottish poet Douglas Dunn’s late Sixties collection of poems chronicling life in the working class region, and there was a hardy feel to the designer’s loose-fitting tailoring.
Suit pants in gray flannel nodded to a Thirties silhouette, cut high on the waist and roomy at the leg and ankle. Grant paired them with lamb’s wool sweaters or softly tailored jackets and round-shouldered overcoats in the same restrained color palette of gray, navy or black. Grant even offered a take on the wooden clogs that English mill-workers once wore, except his were fashioned by Christian Louboutin in calf leather.
Grant’s use of textured, natural fabrics — bouclé tweed, cashmere woven like Donegal tweed, and wool in a black and white Prince of Wales check — added a richness to this gentlemanly collection.