“Tailoring doesn’t always mean shirt-and-tie,” Jason Basmajian declared. His fall-winter presentation for Gieves & Hawkes was a testament to that, proposing moody colors and a freewheeling mix of outerwear, suits and knitwear — all dressy and urbane — for all times of day.

The collection was handsome and assured, skewed more to work than escape – and requiring solid full-time employment, given the predominance of shearling, fur trims and crocodile accessories.

While suits boasted peak lapels and defined waists, overcoats came in more relaxed shapes with tubular pants “not too long, not too short — just right,” Basmajian noted.

Employing mostly solid colors and muting herringbone and Prince of Wales patterns, the creative director of this Savile Row name made a convincing case for his film noir-inspired chic.