There’s nothing like a big anniversary year to tease out a bit of self-reflection — and nostalgia. Brioni, which is marking its 70th anniversary, is no exception. In a rapid-fire runway show staged at Milan’s Castello Sforzesco on Monday night, creative director Brendan Mullane set aside his sometimes lavish, embellished creations of seasons past in favor of the classic, pin-sharp tailored pieces that made this brand great.
Models strode across the courtyard decked in sleek, belted cashmere overcoats with flashes of bright red under the collar or in a variety of checked suits and jackets. Knits — both slim and hefty — were a big part of the lineup, some with patterns inspired by architectural shapes or wrought iron metalwork.