To say that Dirk Bikkembergs’ collections are athletic would be an understatement. The designer, who refers to his line as “sport couture,” has a deep affiliation with the world of sports, and for fall he turned to free climbing.
To wit: The most prominent accessories of the season were snap-hooks and alpine carabiners — they were everywhere: worn as belts, slung over the shoulder or tied across the chest. This was also true for the few tailored numbers in the lineup, one of which featured a collared vest with multiple pockets that was strapped on top of a navy two-piece suit.
Silhouettes in general were slim or body-hugging, with fitted perfecto and down jackets as the dominant options. But could a pair of sports leggings, at times wildly printed, be appropriate attire for the streets of Milan – even when it’s styled with a sober black blazer? Hardly.