While in the past prized as a directional and edgy label, especially during the Raf Simons era, the namesake founder of this Hamburg-born brand was known for her magical tweaking of classics. With sly changes in proportion, she could always make a tailored navy coat more covetable than last season’s.
For his debut men’s effort, Rodolfo Paglialunga perpetuated that legacy with a range of outerwear and youthful tailoring that felt current and approachable. Runway razzle-dazzle included oversize trousers that puddled over futuristic leather boots, and oversize polo sweaters in lumpy Seventies synthetics and offbeat colors.
But the big takeaway was streamlined luxury, exemplified in double-face cashmere coats, belted macs and double-breasted greatcoats belted at the hips. Workwear details including utility pockets and drawstring waists added interest to the uncluttered shapes.
While somewhat repetitive, Paglialunga’s show spoke to men who shop more out of need than a desire to appear trendy, tempting them with a handsome black leather bomber jacket, a beefy shearling coat and a three-button jacket in denim blue that would easily bridge work and weekend wardrobes.
After a long career in women’s wear, having worked at Romeo Gigli, Prada and Vionnet, Paglialunga is off to a solid start in men’s.