John Varvatos pinned his fall look on drainpipe trousers in suiting fabrics and the leanest leather jeans — fine for his beanpole models, a challenge for his more mature final customer.
Yet one could understand his fascination with the retro rocker look — a Richard Avedon photo of Bob Dylan in Central Park circa 1965 spawned a tour-bus load of lean topcoats and belted car coats. They filed down a runway carpeted with leaves and lined with park-bench seating. “We’re calling it a dandy in New York,” the designer said of his transplanted Englishman, the kind of guy who totes a guitar case in the same muted plaid as his skinny suit.
The dusty autumnal colors — from olive to dark plum — and blurred checks gave a gentler allure to biker jackets, parkas and a range of short coats. While outfits tended to be overly studied, some strong items stood out, including a black peacoat in papery leather and beefy shearlings that read classic, but possessed that swagger Bob Dylan crooned about in “Tombstone Blues.”