“I thought it would be fun to have the finale in the beginning,” said Thom Browne, who reversed the scenario of his winter show for Moncler Gamme Bleu. The show started with a mechanical march, conjuring the opening scenes of Fritz Lang’s “Metropolis,” which provided the soundtrack. There were four teams of “Winter Olympians,” waving the flag for essentially one look: a heavy down jacket in four different colors: beige, gray, navy and black, matched with thick padded pants. Could that have been it, guests wondered when the music stopped. Not when Browne is in the house.
The next thing one saw: Strobe lights flashing, models ripping off their padded pants and hanging up their jackets, which turned out to be double-faced, on the set’s tree props to reveal the actual silhouettes: body-hugging suits harking back to traditional jockey uniforms.
“The show was really a simple mix of the very first down jacket Moncler did in the Fifties and the very first down-filled sport coat that I made seven years ago,” said Browne, who has no particular affiliation with horse racing, but said he admired the patterns: stripes, checks, zigzags and harlequin diamonds. The way he worked these was everything but “simple.” Browne unleashed them, densely packed on surfaces chock-a-block with contrasting fabrics ranging from Persian lamb to British wool and at times sealed by plastic. Some jackets were entirely knitted — each item a statement of its own.