What’s a designer to do when mainstream fashion has embraced your original aesthetic? Let Tim Coppens tell you: “Now, everybody is doing athletic references so I don’t want to use them anymore. But I can’t step away completely from the DNA of the brand.”

As a result, Coppens injected tailored and evening references onto his sporty roots for fall, resulting in a more grown-up, multidimensional collection. A bonded cashmere camel coat with a ribbed bomber collar and zip-on scarf epitomized the perfect blend of both worlds. Even the casting was different this season, with a rougher feeling that spoke to his inspiration: “Skinheads,” a book by Derek Ridgers. “Everything is wearable with an edge,” he said.

His women’s collection was very much in tune with the men’s wear. He showed his signature bomber jackets, nylon and cotton-coated parkas and a shearling-combo jacket that were all perfect for braving the elements. The designer also tried his hand at more feminine pieces, such as a pleated cargo skirt and some beautiful knit sweaters with a touch of Swarovski crystal embellishment. Even though he is offering more tailored pieces, this collection proves Coppens hasn’t lost his connection with youth culture.