It’s been a moody fall season, and Alexandre Mattiussi has joined the somber set. He staged his show in an underground parking garage to approximate a rainy night in Paris, staff dousing the “asphalt” floor to uphold the effect. The almost filmlike setting was dark and moody, much like the collection. Backstage, the designer explained that he wanted “to get back into the street-thing again — make it more sharp, more masculine, more classic again.”
Although the show opened with a loose double-breasted pin-striped suit, worn over a V-neck sweater, the collection quickly adopted a tougher edge. Mattiussi, who has a growing following on the other side of the English Channel, must have heard London calling as he sent out guys wearing three-quarter-length pants, styled with heavy boots, military parkas or roomy coats and hooded sweaters. There was denim, too, from ink-blue to a pale watery hue, but otherwise strict and unadorned.
A softer proposal heralded a return to eclectic Parisian style. Floral prints on a light silk shirt, as well as a big jacquard parka that shimmered gold in the dark flirted with questionable taste. Loosely tailored pants paired with a big turtleneck sweater were more in the vein of AMI’s elevated basics, Mattiussi’s forte.
Girls appreciated it, too. Unlike elsewhere on the runways this season, where feminine touches creeped into the male wardrobe, Mattiussi’s female cast was dressed like men. Squelching speculation, the designer said there would be no AMI women’s collection for the time being. “I’m not ready, and I feel like the girl can dress in men’s clothes,” he said.