For his swan song collection for Carven, Guillaume Henry subtly referenced the mid-Eighties with oversize outerwear and retro details.
The designer, who started his new job as creative director of Nina Ricci this month, opted for efficiency by cribbing elements of his final women’s pre-fall collection. There were shared fabrics, such as the wide-striped wool that appeared here on a suit, and motifs, like the cassette embroideries that embellished sweatshirts.
Henry also kept shapes simple, turning out broad-shouldered coats in plain wool or black-and-white tweed, fluffy alpaca bomber jackets with oversize pockets and collarless shirts. With a mostly muted palette of gray, beige and black, these were serviceable basics that could quietly slip into any man’s wardrobe.