Aldo Maria Camillo said he felt the need to clean up for fall, looking for “shapes that were simple, wearable and understandable.” He summed up backstage: “Clothes for the real man.” The brief show had some sharp outerwear as its main point of attraction. Exploring the work of Joseph Beuys, the designer played with felt, which he coated with a water-repellent finish on slim-cut coats, somewhat reminiscent of traditional hunting attire. Other numbers harked back to frocks that were belted above the waist and featured classic fedora hats as elegant accents.
Throughout, Camillo managed to marry Cerruti’s tailoring heritage with a youthful flair — either via slightly baggy trousers and chunky footwear or collage-like prints, which he stacked one on top of the other to give knitted sweaters and long, cozy scarves a brighter touch. The layering continued quite literally on some of the silhouettes: picture a superlight cashmere turtleneck covered by a crisp white T-shirt and V-neck sweater, topped by a Chesterfield coat. This was a minimalist collection, yet rich in basics, done in a warm palette of gray and brown hues.