The long succession of outfits Rei Kawakubo sent out were like a meandering conversation — by the end, you almost forgot where you started off.
She called the collection “The Power of Ceremony” and it began in formal fashion with variations on Bermuda suits. A double-breasted jacket was made from diagonal panels of pin-striped wool shot through with Lurex thread, while others were skillfully twisted around the body to button slantwise.
Thick black strips of fabric, wrapped around a sleeve or running along the spine of light gray jackets, looked like randomly applied mourning bands.
After that, the collection veered into several directions: dense calligraphy prints in shades ranging from inky blue to pink and red with the words “Born to Die” intertwined within; touches of fake fur in monochrome leopard and zebra prints, and black-and-white illustrations on the back of pristine white outerwear. It was all paraded to music from the cultish film “Eyes Wide Shut,” adding to the eerie feeling.
The tailoring theme reemerged at the end, in the shape of a series of beautifully constructed black jackets made from curved panels lightly assembled to reveal glimpses of white underneath. They were the real talking points of this eclectic display.