Call it “moda povera.” For his sophomore runway collection, Gosha Rubchinskiy tapped the stripped-down Nineties aesthetic of the Russian skater kids who are his mainstay inspiration.

 

A mullet-haired teen stepped out in a red sweater stamped with the word “Sport” in Cyrillic script, paired with black acid wash jeans held up with a white shoelace, in lieu of a belt. Trousers and jogging pants were systematically tucked into ribbed white socks.

 

Look beyond the retro styling, and the Comme des Garçons protégé showed plenty of outerwear in polished fabrications, including a tartan mohair blouson with sheepskin lining and a boxy hooded red wool jacket with flat front pockets.

 

Rubchinskiy has gained a cult following for his clothing designs and photography, which have earned him comparisons to both Raf Simons and Larry Clark. In a sign his talent is about to reach the masses, he recently shot the spring-summer men’s wear look book for British online retailer Asos.