A dandy, as seen from Japan, via Scotland: That was the mixed-up premise of Yusuke Takahashi’s collection for Issey Miyake. The result was hit and miss.


Takahashi featured the stylized designs of Charles Rennie Mackintosh on suits and a couple of long coats. Printed on a plain purple or black suit, a black irregular grid pattern read like a fresh take on a classic check. But this restrained interpretation rapidly gave way to quirkier fare, such as tie-neck shirts and knickerbockers.


The designer plastered Mackintosh’s signature stylized rose on a scarlet dévoré velvet robe that had a Wildean flourish. However, black crushed velvet pants veered to the tacky side of the current Seventies revival.


Marking a change of venue, the collection was shown at the Fondation Cartier and featured an arty component. Photographer Satoshi Fujiwara’s unvarnished portraits of commuters — sagging jowls ahoy! — appeared on shirts, T-shirts and bags. Quite how they fit with the theme of the show was anyone’s guess.