Julien David is in a pragmatic mood for fall. The designer dispatched his beloved surfer to the office, putting tailoring at the center of his collection “because my guy also has to work,” he grinned backstage before the show.

Suit pants were done in double-jersey, rendering them soft and easy, much like a pair of sweats, while jackets featured bulky shoulders and elongated hems, giving a retro tinge.

Shirts made of recycled Oxford cotton might have looked crisp, but David’s businessman didn’t care to tuck it in, or adjust his tie. “He’s in a rush, a bit undone, a bit imperfect,” said the designer, who employed little palm trees printed on 3D-velvet to signal that his desk worker yearns for the waves. The fabric was used on rider and workwear-inspired jackets worn underneath wool coats or nylon parkas that boasted camouflage jacquards, as well as a series of hard-case (again, a little Eighties) custom-made briefcases. Oakley mirror-lensed sunglasses completed the cheeky, young entrepreneur look.