Ever since launching his own label a decade ago, Junichi Abe has been playing with classic men’s motifs such as tartan, argyle and Fair Isle. This season he took blankets as the main graphic element — from multiple stripes to vaguely Navajo motifs done in muted colors — to craft a collection that was both warm and chic.
There was a certain flavor of the American West in the big scarfs wrapped generously around matching sweaters, bringing to mind life on a Santa Fe ranch.
The show opener, a coat in a wool blanket fabric, was patched with big work wear pockets in brown canvas in the front while the show closed with a big light blue greatcoat, the sort of piece cowboys or ranch hands would wear. In between was a parade of neat and comfy tailoring and outerwear, including jersey suits done in an array of stripes, brushed wool coats and jackets, some of which were morphed with nylon parkas in autumnal shades.
But he mis-stepped with his mixed-fabric numbers, such as stone washed denim pockets placed on a gray wool short jacket or camel suede upper pant parts affixed to the bottom of a classic gray wool coat with raglan sleeves.