For his return to the Parisian fashion scene, Kostas Murkudis proposed “inter gender” collections. Nothing about cross-dressing here, but rather two parallel wardrobes adapted to each gender in terms of fit, size and fabric choices.
Take, for example, the flight suit — in organza for her, nylon for him — or the flight jacket, cropped for the women’s version.
Murkudis also included some subtly subversive proposals, as in a classic trench for men entirely made of fluid viscose jersey, or an elongated military inspired knit sweater worn as a tunic dress over pants for men. For minimal underwear, the designer picked pink for men and yellow for women.
This Murkudis comeback collection was true the designer’s Nineties aesthetic and offered strong wardrobe staples often done in unexpected fabrics and with some fetish accents. Leather pieces, for example, echo the underground life of photographer Robert Mapplethorpe in New York during the late Seventies.