Kris Van Assche has yet to tire of the athletic influences that have run riot over men’s wear in recent seasons. Chalk-stripe trousers tapered down to tight elastic cuffs, giving maximum exposure to the Belgian designer’s latest sneakers with their hiking-boot lacing.
The tailoring was fine and youthful, patched around the breast pocket and sleeves with bloblike shapes like the ones produced by lava lamps. The same theme applied to the turtlenecks underneath, offbeat colors like burgundy, air-freshener green and cement gray curdled together.
Suits and coats also accrued military details — the cinched sleeves and zippered utility pockets of aviator bombers, or amorphous panels of glossy satin. But the show failed to take flight with all the tricky details and offbeat colors.
Items that made one sit up and take notice included a killer black nappa leather blouson and some elongated Seventies ski sweaters, one carrying a nifty new take on the KVA logo.