“The fashion industry is so content-driven, you need to pace it out,” noted Jonathan Anderson, while guiding through his second collection for Spanish leather goods maker Loewe, which harked back at the good old times. “You know how you look into someone’s closet and nothing makes sense, but then you start pulling out items and ask: when did you get this? That was the idea. It shouldn’t be about seasons, but edited pieces that people feel a desire for and that eventually come together to form a wardrobe,” the designer explained.
Proving the point, Loewe will dispatch about 25 percent of the collection to stores in the next few weeks, with actual deliveries beginning in May. The speed fits in with Anderson’s view that the consumer rules today — and he or she needs constant newness to keep them interested. For the first time in the house’s history, a pair of sneakers, done handsomely in gray suede with a natural-rubber sole, will make its way into the lineup.
As for the apparel, the designer took a plunge into Loewe’s archives and came back with ideas for styles that oozed a strong vintage feel, mostly Seventies-tinged, but that were largely appropriate for today’s streets. Body-conscious knitwear in multicolored pixelated patterns were shown with long and luscious trousers that fell lightheartedly over the house’s woven leather loafers, while a new linenlike texture, playing with the idea of weightlessness, was spotted on the brand’s leather accessories.
The collection had plenty going on in the outerwear department: shearling appeared on collars of butter-soft Papa aviator jackets and Japanese denim peacoats. There was a paper-thin blouson from red and navy kangaroo leather, somewhat reminiscent of Michael Jackson’s “Beat It,” as well as a roaring bellow-back tweed coat in a fresh, minty hue, which might have just as well pleased the ladies.
Ultimately, the collection was about individual statements rather than prefabricated trends.