The team at Maison Martin Margiela looked torn for fall, as the collection walked the line between Seventies disco-glam and fine tailoring. On one side, one saw a slim, slightly elongated peacoat in shiny midnight blue leather with a blush pink collar, worn over slim, flower-printed pants and a pair of red boots. On the other, the team went with a clean, gray, double-breasted suit and a tone-on-tone overcoat, for which the words “calm” and “chic” both sprang to mind.
The match-and-mix tactics continued, as beautifully tailored pleated trousers arrived in a loud concert with glittery tops and accessories, the patterns and heeled boots playing up this season’s feminine influences on men’s wear, which at the same time heralded the departure from the house’s rough and rugged image of a guy. The divisiveness was a bit jarring. Yet some of the craftsmanship was clearly outstanding. Cue a coat done from printed canvas, its threads left unfinished, as if it had just been torn out of its exquisite frame.