Bigger shapes are nothing new for Sir Paul Smith, who’s been dressing rock stars since he was 18 and seen men’s fashion expand and contract. But his younger staff, weaned on skinny jeans, is “excited about them,” he related after a fall show hinged on loping, Seventies-tinged tailoring. Smith’s statement coats were extralong and oversize, including flaring leather macs and shearlings; strong-shouldered wool overcoats in blanket checks, and full-on furs that you could imagine only on rock stars of yore. (Smith name-checked Jimmy Page backstage, with whom he recently collaborated to produce limited-edition scarves marking newly remastered versions of Led Zeppelin albums.)
The tailoring was approachable, most jackets slightly boxy and worn over fuller flared trousers. Striped silk scarves, and colors in the persimmon family, fed the retro feeling.
Smith referenced the work of “It” Bauhaus couple Josef and Anni Albers, including the latter’s mainly geometric textile designs. They were executed here mainly in gray and camel, two breakout color stars of the season.