Walter Van Beirendonck is a man with a message. The Belgian fashion maverick opened his fall collection with models sporting see-through tops emblazoned with phrases such as “Stop Terrorising Our World” and “Warning Explicit Beauty” overlaying well-tailored trousers in hues like beige, pink and light blue.
As his quirky show unfolded, the designer’s talent to finely construct and deconstruct fashion was increasingly evident. Alongside conservative tailoring, he presented off-kilter creations, such as half-cape, half-jacket tops made of materials such as jacquard, plastic and leather. A brightly colored eye, nose and mouth featured on one multi-hued sweater paired with pants whose pattern included numerous images of a bearded character (not unlike the designer himself) with a “W” on his chest.
Eye imagery popped up a lot, including in fabric prints, as did eagle motifs on 3-D jewelry.