Raimund Berthold’s fall collection riffed on an old Second World War life vest that he hung in his studio for inspiration. “It all started with the vision of drowning — drowning in your clothes, but being protected at the same time,” he mused.


A short, hooded tabard puffed up with down and anchored under the arm approximated a life-preserver, and actually looked cool. Latex pieces — made in a factory that caters to the erotic industry — included a gray parka, although Berthold used the non-glossy side for a dusty effect rather than a fetishistic one. There were also great sheepskin jackets and a duster coat in rubberized jersey.


Reflecting that Berthold is a keen art collector, one yellow trenchcoat was digitally printed with an installation by German artist Franz Erhard Walther, whom he saw at Art Basel.