As part of Burberry’s streamlining — the label recently combined its three labels under one banner — Christopher Bailey mixed up sporty and elegant, luxe and common, military and civilian, and came up with a powerful cocktail for fall.

 

The brand’s chief creative and chief executive officer had taken a similar approach for his uneven women’s spring runway show, but found his footing this time with a high-low collection that saluted the season’s top trends, including military, pumped-up volumes, magnified plaids and shearling.

 

Models, including the Canadian-Chinese heartthrob Kris Wu, strolled around a snaking catwalk in a darkened tent in Kensington Gardens, as the Mercury Prize-winning artist Benjamin Clementine performed live on the piano.

 

Strolling past a front row that counted guests including Gabriel Day Lewis, Jourdan Dunn, and musicians Tinie Tempah and David Rhodes, models were dressed for a variety of climates — and times of day.

 

Highlights included sharp military coats with fat gold buttons and red piping; roomy outerwear — anoraks, duffles, shearling-lined parkas, plaid or herringbone overcoats and one voluminous fox fur coat. Many of them layered over zip-front tracksuit tops or fluid bottoms stripes down the side.

 

Bailey even added a dash of vintage to the collection: The company has been traveling the world buying up old Burberry pieces and restoring them in its Yorkshire factories.

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