Despite their stated military theme, and all the discipline and neatness its uniforms imply, this was a disjointed and at times cacophonous effort from father-son duo Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford, who charted how Army looks infiltrated the music scene from The Beatles era through to Nineties rave culture.
The former was little more than Sgt. Pepper jackets reduced to showy tabards; the latter dramatic parkas in billowing parachute fabrics or pants in blaring psychedelic prints. In between were such disparate, yet more plausible items as jacquard dinner jackets, trimly cut sweatshirts and pants and oversize field jackets and bombers, the latter a popular item on London runways.
A new collaboration with Sperry Top-Sider yielded boat shoes with creeper soles, colliding an American classic with a standard bearer of British subculture.